If you happen to be walking down Main street between 5th and 6th in downtown Los Angeles, you will discover a strange form of pageantry in a restaurant window. Mannequin heads coiffed with meringue and brioche sit on top of stainless cake stands embellished with rock candy and beads. These heads are the entree to the Nickel Diner, where liberal portions of moxie, wit and good food are served.
Owners Monica May and Kristen Trattner, who reside downtown, were interested in creating a place that served breakfast after 11:00 and gave the community a restaurant for real comfort food, a diner. Since both women view downtown as their home and playground, what better space to occupy than the former Big Circus Restaurant.
Many of the buildings' former lives were revealed during construction, most notably Big Circus. Its wall mural menu was discovered during renovation and is now prominently displayed at the entrance of the diner. Red vinyl banquettes, linoleum, Dorothy Draper inspired wide horizontal stripes, upside down floor lamps posing as ceiling fixtures, and nicotine-like patina decorate the space. It harkens back to that diner on Main Street, USA, with a kink.
Once you are greeted and seated, the vintage ambiance really sinks in. The surroundings are a huge part of the whole experience, but you're really here to eat. The menu consists of updated classics, comfort food and vegetarian options made from quality ingredients and preparation. Some examples: the brining of chicken for their tasty chicken salad or an ice cold wedge of iceberg lettuce topped with their homemade blue cheese dressing served with a flank steak-a much improved classic dish. Make sure to wash all that good food down with one of their uncommon bottled sodas. Mr.Q Cucumber, Bana-nina and Mint Julep are part of the offerings, as well as good old Coke, Bubble-Up, and Dr. Pepper.
Since this is not the place to order egg whites, it's also not the place to pass on dessert. Pastry chef Sharlena Fong is a conjurer of unique sweets. Asked during her interview to create Cher in a cupcake, she did, and was consequently hired on as part of the team. Her fantastical creations re-interpret the classics (pop-tarts, ding-dongs) or reassign them to different categories (red velvet donuts, s'mores cake). Lady Sucre makes the perfect breakfast...a maple bacon donut.
The patrons of Nickel Diner come from all walks of life to enjoy the tried and true and a little culinary experimentation. Chef Monica May believes that there is very little that separates us and that food is a great leveler. The old mural they uncovered above the door declares "This is the place, there is no place quite like this place anywhere near this place so this must be the place," quite a proclamation. Although they didn't put it there, it definitely belongs.
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