Blue Plate Oysterette - The Perfect Project Finds Tim Clarke
Written by Holli Thomas
Photographed by Coleen Rider
Video created by Coleen Rider & Rudy Rich
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At the Blue Plate Oysterette, the oyster serves as muse to the menu and the environs. Owner Jenny Morton and interior designer Tim Clarke have created a restaurant with good old fashioned seaside charm, tempered with a southern California sensibility that is both luminous and organic.
An open kitchen looks onto the cozy rectangular space which is defined by a pearlescent tufted banquette running along the entire length of the restaurant. The banquette's luster has an organic contrast consisting of zinc tabletops, unvarnished wooden chairs and recycled iron.
Assisting in connecting all of these elements is the bark wall covering at the back of the space, unevenly perforated, revealing a gold finish underneath. This creates a textural foundation for the focal point of the restaurant - a gilded school of octopi wrapped around a convex mirror. Various shades of blue bathe the space akin to an ever-changing tide. It's a salty glam mix that welcomes construction crews as easily as it does fashionable ladies.
Our hostess squeezed us into the packed restaurant at the tail end of lunch, deftly maneuvering the table and chairs to seat us. You'll find yourself more than likely chatting up your neighbor or sharing thoughts about the menu with them. If you're sitting by the kitchen, the chalkboard above the bar announces the daily fresh oyster offerings which normally include five varieties from both the east and west coasts. Along with freshly grated horseradish, accompanying the fresh oysters are different mignonette concoctions. The house mignonette consists of shallots, Muscatello, rice wine vinegar and tarragon, while the more inventive "Ximenez" version incorporates tomatoes, aged sherry, mint and chili flakes. Both are delicious.
Plenty of seafood classics are on the menu and some have been slightly tweaked and improved upon. The lobster roll is one. Generous pieces of lobster are lightly dressed and served in a delicately toasted brioche, accompanied by homemade sweet potato chips. The calamari is breaded with cornmeal and fried; its baby tentacles are tender and fresh. The small plate portion of calamari easily serves two. Both dishes are presented with casual flair in metal baskets lined with blue and white checked paper.
A California beach restaurant wouldn't be complete without ceviche. The day we dined, the Fish of the Day was sea bass. It was simple and clean, with the marinade discreetly enhancing the flavors of the fish. The lobster mac-and-cheese is a calorie filled collision of comfort food and seafood, and well worth the splurge.
Despite the fact the Blue Plate Oysterette has just recently opened, it feels like an old friend. The staff definitely contributes to the friendly and welcoming vibe. General manager Salvador d'Auvergne possesses that rare quality of making every patron feel like a well looked after local.
Just across the street is the sparkling Pacific Ocean. The Blue Plate Oysterette is well aware of its surroundings and has snuggled right in.
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