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Bottega Louis
August 2009
Written by Coleen Rider / Photographed by Coleen Rider
Bottega Louie has a heavenly quality to it, especially if one's version of heaven includes good design. Its stark 20 foot white walls' only embellishments are plaster cartouches, duplicated from those found in 14th C. Paris apartments using French cartouche makers, but as chef and part owner Sam Marvin states, "the art is in the people, the food, and the juxtaposition of the two." Indeed, everywhere you look, there are painting worthy scenes. After only being open four months, it looks as though the locals have welcomed Bottega Louie with open arms. There are CEO's, students, artist types, secretaries, fashionistas, movie people, all perched in the various areas created especially for their repeat enjoyment. Four times a week, to be exact, is how often the founders would like to see you, and they have tailored their offerings to guarantee your return.
As you enter off the gritty Downtown Los Angeles street and through the heavy glass and brass double doors (duplicated from Angelina, Paris' oldest pastry shop) you are greeted by the Bottega Louie scripted logo cast in brass and inlaid into the Italian marble floor. This is a detail that speaks to the intended longevity of the brand. Your next sight is a still life of pastries behind a gorgeous  glass cabinet which is topped with stacked pastel boxes reminiscent of Laudree. This is just the beginning of what is called the gourmet market, but we'll get back to that later, because from the left, the bar is beckoning.
Bottega Louie goes for an old school type of service and the bartenders are no exception. If you have put your name in for a table, everyone on staff (including the kitchen) will be informed and it is a pleasant surprise when they use it. As Marvin puts it, "we are not here to be your best friend, we are here to serve you". The service is intensive and aims to rival that of the most prestigious restaurants in the world. The cocktails are made with fresh ingredients and are concocted with care, but no matter how well your drink is shaken, where a bar can go wrong is in the comfort level. Thankfully, they get this right as well. The thick marble bar is deep, solid, and comfortable. The foot rest's design was selected from 15 different options and is installed at the perfect height. The bar stools are wooden cafe style, topped with black leather. They provide the perfect casual foil for the formal brass detailing on the front of the bar. In this spot the soaring ceilings and massive windows facing the street scene have a most pleasant effect for those with an aversion to sipping spirits the dark and dingy way.
Next to the open bar is a cafe area with marble topped pub tables. This area is packed with patrons reading the newspaper, working on laptops, or sitting for a spell with a cupcake from the bakery. In the weekday mornings, from 6:30 on, you can get a delicious cup of coffee for $1 and start the workday serenaded by Italian opera. The close proximity of the bar to the cafe seating contributes to the community feel of Bottega Louis. The myth of Angelinos being unfriendly due to sitting in traffic alone in their cars for too long is dispelled here. Everyone is all smiles.
From the bar and cafe area, thanks to thick, waist high glass panels, you are treated to a captivating drama known as the restaurant kitchen. This is one major welcoming aspect of the restaurant. Adjacent to the open kitchen is the gilded Louis XVI style console table used as the host's headquarters. A modern brass task lamp and a large red leather bound reservation book are the dining room's orchestration tools. Also here are stacks of beautifully designed menus and dessert lists outlined with a lovely splash of red and brass trim.
Beyond the glamorous greeting station is the main dining room. Chic black leather tufted banquettes line each quadrant the space is divided into. Not to be confused with booths, these lean modern beauties show their slim brass fluted legs proudly. They are very comfortable, yet invite you to sit up proper. In the distance and centered on the far wall, you see the 20 foot high background of subway tile which houses the pizza oven. This is open for viewing as well, and who can resist a good pizza dough throw? This brings us to the food.
Marvin frequents the farmer's market and with his extensive history in the restaurant industry, has the connections to bring you top quality ingredients from the most sought after growers and purveyors. The tomatoes are from Chino Ranch, the potatoes are from Wiser Farms, and the beef is all natural Prime USDA. Every morning there is a phone call from fishermen reporting on the day's catch.
The pizza is Neapolitan style. Thanks to fresh mozzarella, it's is sans grease and therefore eliminates the stuffed feeling one can get from just two slices. The tomato sauce tastes "off the vine" fresh and slightly sweet. The crust is thin, springy, and chewy with a hint of crisp. There are small plates offered that truly add to the dining experience. The sauteed white corn with Swiss chard and bacon is divine. The Portobello fries are battered strips of Portobello mushrooms paired with a garlic aioli. Marvin is particularly passionate about the meatballs which are made from a centuries old Sicilian recipe.
The market offers gourmet cheeses, yogurt parfaits, organic in season fruits, and hard to find soda pops. There are also prepared salads and entrees, including but not limited to fried chicken, glazed salmon, and mac and cheese, all made with same quality ingredients used in the restaurant. Locals dropping in for a quart of milk may have a hard time resisting the tempting homemade food and foregoing the task of cooking dinner that evening. Bottega Louis offers its own line of fresh sauces and soups available here in simple jars straight from the kitchen.
Last but certainly not least, the patisserie, where exquisite treats abound. Brightly colored and flavored macaroons, delicate beignets, fresh fruit tarts, and perfectly proportioned cupcakes placed in gold scalloped holders. Everything is elegantly displayed with the special attention to detail usually observed when window shopping in Paris.
The space was once home to Brooks Brothers, which thrived in Downtown L.A.'s first heyday. Now the historical city is smack in the middle of its second and Bottega Louis intends to contribute the passion, quality, and standards with which downtown dwellers are becoming well acquainted.
BOTTEGA LOUIE
213.802.1470
700 South Grand Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90017
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